Introducing the NCASE M1EVO: a successor that builds upon the legacy of the beloved NCASE M1. Crafted from high-quality CNC machined aluminum, the M1EVO exudes an exceptionally clean and premium aesthetic. Its allure extends beyond mere looks, offering a plethora of configuration options to cater to diverse build preferences.
In our exploration today, we’ll first delve into the components carefully chosen for this build. Following that, we’ll embark on a journey to experience firsthand what it’s like to build within the confines of this innovative M1EVO chassis.
CPU: 7800X3D
For the CPU, the choice is the 7800X3D, a processor frequently mentioned in various builds throughout the year. Renowned for its exceptional gaming performance, it stands out as a top pick for those seeking the best CPU within their budget. However, for users engaging in intensive productivity tasks alongside gaming, options like the 7950X3D or an Intel i9 offer heightened capabilities albeit at a higher cost.
Lower the CPU into the socket, ensuring the arrow on the top right aligns with the socket arrow. Once it’s in place, lower the latch to secure it.
Motherboard: ASUS X670E-I
The motherboard of choice is the ASUS X670E-I, a high-end option with features that may be considered overkill for many users. It boasts massive actively cooled VRM heatsinks, a plethora of dynamic overclocking options, and a separate control panel for convenient system adjustments such as volume control, headphone connections, and USB peripheral management.
Regarding its rear IO, this motherboard offers an extensive array of connectivity options including numerous USB ports, including 2 USB4 Type-C ports, WiFi 6e support, and 2.5G Ethernet capability. These features collectively contribute to a robust and versatile motherboard solution for enthusiasts and power users.
SSD: Samsung 980 Pro Drive
The motherboard features all the necessary fan and RGB headers conveniently located at the top. Beneath a substantial heatsink, there is space allocated for two M.2 drives. In this build, a single 2TB 980 Pro drive will be installed, showcasing the board’s capacity for high-speed storage solutions.
Install the SSD and secure it by gently screwing it in.
RAM: Corsair DDR5-6000
The RAM selection for this build comprises a set of low-profile sticks from Corsair, running at DDR5-6000 speed. This choice strikes a balance between cost, stability, and performance, with the added benefit of an EXPO profile for easy overclocking to achieve the advertised 6000MHz speed. These short sticks are unobtrusive and ideal for this build’s requirements.
Align the pins on the RAM with that of the motherboard and press down until it clicks.
Case: NCASE M1EVO
When assembling the NCASE M1EVO, it’s important to note that it arrives flat-packed, requiring a meticulous assembly process. This complexity, however, provides a wide array of options for component selection and layout, significantly enhancing the versatility and potential for customization in the build.
For those intending to run a founders edition card horizontally with a 180-degree adapter, ensuring compatibility with the v1.1 kit is essential. This kit can be identified by checking for extra cutouts on the rear panel for the GPU bracket fingers. Additionally, the v1.1 kit includes shorter motherboard standoffs, which are crucial for creating sufficient clearance for the power adapter. If your setup lacks these cutouts, obtaining the v1.1 kit from the manufacturer’s site is necessary to proceed with the build seamlessly.
When utilizing the v1.1 kit alongside the Corsair 12vhpwr bridge, it’s worth noting that the bridge might exert pressure against the side panel when the cover is on. Ncase advises removing the cover in such cases to avoid this issue. However, if you opt to keep the cover on, it’s crucial to apply electrical tape to safeguard the pins on the back.
In this case, all of the components are meticulously arranged. Nevertheless, I believe it would have been beneficial if they included an organized tray for the hardware, similar to what many other case manufacturers offer.
Given that some screws appear similar, such as the flat head screws and short countersunk screws, I recommend taking the time to arrange them yourself before starting the assembly. This ensures that you don’t mistakenly use an incorrect screw during the build process.
There are several configurations available to choose from with the NCASE M1EVO, and I’ll guide you through setting up each of them to the best of my ability.
Your first decision revolves around whether you prefer a standard or flipped configuration. In the standard setup, the motherboard is positioned right side up with the GPU installed at the bottom, while the flipped configuration places the GPU at the top.
Gather the motherboard tray along with the front and rear panels. For either configuration, align the side of the motherboard tray with the angled piece, ensuring that this side attaches to the rear panel. Position it so that the long cutout faces toward the bottom or the side of the rear panel with the larger cutout.
Align the three holes from the motherboard tray with those on the rear panel. Using three short countersunk screws, secure the tray from the backside. While this initial step can be a bit challenging, pre-screwing the top position and aligning the cutouts over the holes for the rear panel can simplify the process. Slide the tray into position and then secure the remaining two screws.
For the standard configuration, repeat this step for the front panel. However, if you’re opting for the flipped configuration, flip the tray with the rear panel so that the large cutout for the GPU is at the top.
Remove the bracket for the side fan bracket from the front panel and relocate it to the other side before securing it to the motherboard tray. In this guide, we are using the standard configuration.
Next, remove the fan bracket brace along with the power supply bracket brace from the top. Additionally, relocate the piece holding the case IO from the bottom of the front panel to the side.
Let’s proceed with the power supply bracket.
Determine the desired position for the power supply. There is flexibility to move it up and down within this set of holes, ensuring that the PSU fan faces out the side.
Alternatively, you can rotate it 90 degrees against the front panel, which is ideal if you plan to use a mATX board in your build. It’s worth noting that you can also opt for an ATX power supply if desired. However, if its length exceeds 140mm, it will restrict the length of GPU that can fit into the case.
Power Supply: SFX
Today, an SFX power supply will be utilized, positioned at the bottom supply brace we just relocated to the side. It will be secured using a long countersunk screw. For those opting for the standard configuration, slide the brace back into the top position and resecure it with the fan bracket brace.
If you’re going for the flipped configuration, place it at the bottom behind the IO piece, but refrain from re-securing the IO piece just yet.
Finally, use two short countersunk screws to secure it to the motherboard tray.
It’s time to install the power button. If you’ve selected a front panel with front IO, gather all the IO cables as well. The power button cap can smoothly slide into its designated cutout.
Slide each IO cable into the corresponding cutouts on the IO piece. It’s crucial to insert them into the first cutout position to ensure they sit flush with the front and don’t protrude.
Ensure the yellow film is removed from the power button and slide it into the middle position, aligning all IO components with their cutouts on the case. Take your time with this step as correct alignment may require a moment, but once everything is in place, resecure the IO holder using its original screws.
Align the power button PCB properly and then use two short flathead screws to secure it, ensuring a snug fit against the power button cover.
Before proceeding with component installation, secure the power extension on the rear panel using two long countersunk screws.
Install the feet onto the bottom panel to avoid future inconvenience. Note that I prefer a slightly different placement from the official directions. This adjustment allows for easier access to the bottom panel installation holes, avoiding any obstructions.
On the motherboard side, there are some pre-installed standoffs. All of the holes on these 2 pieces allow us to move the motherboard position up and down depending on what configuration is desired.
For a standard layout using a 4-slot GPU, the motherboard would be best in the top position.
We will be installing a radiator, needing more room at the top. For this, lower the motherboard position to the bottom position to give some space.
This bottom position is only going to work if you are installing the vertical GPU mount as well.
Next, prepare the power supply unit by connecting all necessary cables before positioning it onto the bracket installed earlier. Secure the power supply in place using the provided screws.
Connect your case cables and power connections, and manage cables to prepare for the subsequent steps.
If you’re opting for air cooling, you can install your cooler at this stage (if it wasn’t done during motherboard preparation). The case supports an air cooler of up to 135mm in height. In a previous build, I used a 110mm cooler, leaving space for a slim 120mm fan above it, resulting in excellent performance.
Radiator: Fractal Lumen s24 v2 RGB.
For this build, I’ll be top-mounting a radiator, specifically the Fractal Lumen s24 v2 RGB. This radiator has a low-profile CPU block, and, conveniently, the pump is integrated into the radiator, eliminating the need to worry about its position relative to the block.
Align the fans on the radiator and securely fasten them. Next, position the fan brackets on the opposite side, aiming to center them, and secure both brackets to the radiator.
Lower the radiator with the fan brackets into the case, ensuring a snug fit, and proceed to lock it in place for a secure installation.
Next, align the radiator with the attached brackets to the holes on the top 2 fan bracket braces and secure it to the case using short countersunk screws.
Since I have an AM5 socket, I’ll be using the AM5 bracket for the pump. However, for Intel systems, they include the backplate and bracket.
The CPU block comes with pre-applied thermal paste. Lower it onto the CPU, securing it in place. Plug in the fan cables and the USB for the pump.
There is an additional RGB cable for the pump block, but for this build, it will not be used, since we are running a vertical GPU that will not show the pump block.
If you have a different configuration, you could install fans at the top instead. In the flipped config, you can use standoffs to attach the second fan bracket brace to the rear panel for top fans if desired.
Another option is to install the fan brackets on the side for side-mounted fans or a radiator up to 280mm. Only one bracket is needed for the side fans, but using two can add to the aesthetic appeal. For those looking to push the limits, there’s a kit available on the Ncase website for a triple radiator setup.
GPU: AMD 7900XT
Now, let’s proceed to install the GPU. This build will use the AMD 7900XT. These cards are now available for around $770, a significant drop from their initial MSRP, making them quite competitive in this price range. They offer 20GB of VRAM compared to the 12GB in NVIDIA’s 4070Ti, which is particularly beneficial for higher resolutions, and they perform approximately 10% faster.
The AMD 7900XT is a dual-slot card with a length of 290mm, fitting comfortably within the case. The case can accommodate up to a 4-slot GPU measuring up to 359mm in length and 140mm in height horizontally, or 165mm in height vertically, allowing for most partner cards, including some larger models like the 4090.
For a standard horizontal GPU installation, begin by preparing the GPU mounting bracket. Remove the plate on the rear panel, open the PCIe latch on the motherboard, and slide the GPU into the slot.
Replace the plate and secure the GPU mounting bracket with flathead screws, then attach the GPU to the bracket with additional screws.
In this setup, I’ll be opting for a vertical mount. Start by securing the PCIe4 cable to the PCIe4 bracket with screws, then attach it to the mounting points along the bottom panel.
Install the PCIE4 riser cable into the motherboard and secure the bottom panel to the case. Remove two plates from the back panel to create enough space for the GPU during installation.
Lower the GPU into the case, align it with the PCIe slot, and push down until it locks in place.
Install a piece on the back to secure the GPU to the case using flathead screws, occupying the same bottom holes as the previously removed plate. Optionally, install PCIe covers.
Connect the power connectors to the GPU, slide on the side panels, and secure the top panel.
That’s the build complete!
With the ventilated panel on, the CPU cooling is better with the AIO by around 4-6 degrees Celsius compared to the air cooling setup I did in the last video using the Noctua NH-D9L both using a standard fan profile. but that air-cooled version with those extra fans is still holding its own. Keep in mind I am using a different GPU in each of these setups, so the frame rate and GPU temps are going to be different.
GPU temps with the ventilated panel are sitting around 70ºC, and you can expect a pretty big hit in GPU temps if you go with the glass side panel. So I would recommend trying to set your GPU as far back from the glass panel as possible if desired. If you were planning to put a bigger card in here that is going to push up close to the panel, I would avoid using glass.
Noise levels are decent, sitting at around 43dB 1.5 feet away from the PC. Although, I have found that the pitch of the fan noise is more noticeable on these fractal fans than on others I’ve used. Arctic or Noctua fans would be great alternatives.
The more I work with this case and discover all of the different possibilities the more I like it.
The only thing preventing this from being a perfect 15L case in my mind is the width. I do love that slim look they were going for – it’s a lot like the T1 in that regard. It is very aesthetic, but if it was just a few mm wider to give enough room to comfortably fit the GPU bridge with the cover on, or better yet a custom cable, that would be an improvement. It could give room for slightly larger CPU coolers like the D12L.